Official Luthiers Forum!

So on a binding repair my amateur thought was to tape the binding off - easy on the side of the guitar where the vase majority of binding is - then spraying on a few coats of clear. BUT, what to do with the top of the binding on the top? How do you mask that accurately? Is it just tape over it and cut away the excess with an exacto knife? Even if this was the case I would think the buildup of lacquer would be an issue - or do you level that off a bit when done?  Thanks

[QUOTE=ToddStock]Assuming that the repaired binding is flush with the existing top and side finish, you'll need to build at least 4-5 coats over the area to have something to blend into the existing finish and still cover the bindings.

I build finish over the bindings with an airbrush (although a touch-up gun would work as well if you are careful), feathering in the application so that fresh lacquer extends an inch or so beyond the binding onto the top and the side. When I do this sort of selective application, I spray as shown to avoid building finish in areas other than over the bindings.



Once cured (2-3 weeks), I level sand the top and sides with 800 and 1200 using a firm foam block, carefully sand the edge, then buff. There will be some minor overspray, but sanding should remove it without issue. If there are some ragged areas where the top finish was lost, a bit of drop filling might be necessary as well.[/QUOTE]

Thanks

I need to get an airbrush in any regard and I bought a small air compressor off ebay - waht is the best pressure?

I would think that an airbrush would be made that provides a really fine line of spray to avoid much overspray. Since hte existing finish is from the 50's - don't worry, not an expensive piece -- that high gloss may be difficult to blend in as the finish has dulled a bit, but I guess if I sand with fine enough paper and carefully enough that most of that extra finish on the top and sides will come off.

 

Do you think your method is what they use on those old Gretsch's where the binding needs to be replaced because of rot?

 

thx again

All too often new lacquer will not burn in well with old unless you carefully de-wax and clean the overspray area and then treat it with either Behlen's Qualarenu or US Cellulose Butyl Cellusolve to soften the old lacquer surface and add back in some plasticizers.   

It is almost impossible to do lacquer retouching without it eventually showing up as the new lacquer shrinks faster than the old.   You'll get it out the door looking great, and then in a year the spot will be very obvious.

For binding touchup and for recreating that old yellowed look, brushed-on orange shellac is a very good alternative.

I guess I could use the shellac and i assume once you brush that on you need to go over it with say 600 then 1000 to get it smooth?

I picked up a Paache Airbrush today, a pretty good one I am told, and I will fool with that for abit and get used to it.

You only thin the lacquer by 10-15%? I always thought it was like 1/3??

 

THX Dennis